The next step is to modify the 3/8" street elbow and to begin working on exhaust valve.
Upon further examination of the threaded part of the check valve I did yesterday, it seemed the tap was inserted a bit cockeyed, so this had to be abandoned or redone. I picked up a second 1/2" NPT non-return valve, but instead of threading in the bushings, cutting them flush and re-tapping them, I decided to bore out the 1/2" NPT threads on each end to 0.8" diameter (0.300" deep). SImilarly, I I machined down the new 1/2"->3/8" bushings to 0.8", (which is just below the point where the hex head becomes round. Using just the top 0.3" of the bushings. I inserted these into the two holes I bored out and soldered them in. This worked brilliantly, and I did not tap anything. I inserted the spring (as per Leon Ridenour's instructions), thus the intake valve is now complete. The next step is to modify the 3/8" street elbow and to begin working on exhaust valve.
0 Comments
Today I finished up work on the cast iron tee which will become the combustion chamber. I am finally caught up to where I was before. I discovered my boo boo with the spark plug hole. After boring out the tee, I went to work on the aluminum plug for the end cap. I also started work on the intake valve.
Since I could not find a 1/2" sweat valve, I had to use a 1/2" NPT valve. In order to mate with the rest of the engine, I had to use a couple of 3/8" adapters. Since I didn't want to see the adapters, I soldered them in and machined off the excess. Unfortunately, the threading did not extend deep enough into the valve, so I had to re-thread them. Threading brass was not as easy as I thought it would be, Today I only managed to do one of the the two. The other one will have to wait until tomorrow. |
AuthorCharles Baetsen holds a Bachelor and a Master's degree in Engineering Physics from McMaster University in Hamilton, Canada. Archives
February 2024
Categories
All
|